We do the darnedest things!, as we have been told more than once. So why stop now.
We got a wild hair, and decided we had a paver stone pad that begged for some kind of artful adornment. After scratching our heads a bit, and pondering the self-made dilemma, we decided that special something should be a sundial.
Ok, I know, now I’ve got you scratching your head, but stay with me. This sundial would not only read time via shadows, but it would be a 6′ circle made from re-bar (thank you, Pat & Leonard). So we did a bit of astrophysics to calculate the longitude / latitude for our elevation to determine proper degree of alignment for the numbers, and appropriate angle and height of the gnomon (you know, that angled piece that projects the shadows).

We built a jig made up of spaced ‘bumpers’ to cold-form the 1/2″ rebar into a perfect 6′ circle. As we bent it around, the re-bar resisted, so we had to convince it to conform to our whim with a helper bar and inch-winch, putting ‘keeper’ bumpers on the outside to contain the re-bar.

It was definitely a learning experience as the re-bar let loose a couple time. John has the bruises to add insult to injury. The 3rd time was the charm, making it easier for the inside 5’2″ rebar inner circle. By the time we bent the 2nd circle we started putting straps around the circle such that we could safely flip it to weld the opposite side, hoping for no more ‘un-furling of the re-bar’ incidents.


With the rings bent, welded, and ground, we were ready to undertake the roman numerals. We cut and ground the 16- I’s, and built a jig for the angled X’s and V’s.

Then welded them together, and ground them.


Using a protractor, a string and our calculations we measured the angles for placement of our clock face roman numerals – 11 am and 1 pm at 8.64 degrees, 10 am and 2pm at 18.13 degrees, etc. Then we individually welded our numbers into position.


For added strength we welded 5 re-bar support struts from the center to the OD of the inside ring, one of which the gnomon will mount on.

After a lot of welding and grinding, we are looking toward the embellishment phase. The clock face will be powder coated a brick red color, so to make it pop we decide to add a removable adornment at the bottom. It will be mounted on bands, adding strength to the bottom of the sundial, and tying the bottom rings together. So that it can be removed to be painted another color (black) we have to get creative on a method to remove.

We individually cut, bent and ground 1/4″ bar stock to make letters spelling out ‘HAPPY JACK’.


Individual letters are cut, ground and formed to shape.


To tie the letters together we attach them to a wire to hold them in place and make them removable, adding washers to bolt to the bands on the clock face.


Are you staying with me? Whew! I know.
Aside from the clock itself, some of the most pondering came from trying to figure out how to make the HAPPY JACK and gnomon removable, and seamlessly elegant without clap trap.
Finally we get to the gnomon part and speeding that process along, we cut the gnomon with a plasma cutter and weld it to re-bar, attaching metal tabs to the clock face and bottom of the gnomon.

And wa-la, a conversation piece is born.

We had it powder coated at Arizona Powdercoat (on Washington / 202 in Phoenix), who have always done a fabulous job for us, and it pops… and tells time, in it’s own artful ancient way.
For a high level history of the sundial check out my post here … https://wordpress.com/post/kritterspix.com/4441





















Layout
Plasma cutting metal
Bench grinding sides
Angle grinding fronts
Braising on ‘shutters’ from antique chain link
Arc-welding panels
Finish birdhouse – full of character and rustic charm
Initial Layout
Cutting strapping material for circles (rings)
Preparing jig to weld rings
Cutting jig template on bandsaw
Ring set up in jig, ready to weld
Welding one of many rings
Grinding one of many rings
Grinding steel pin connectors
Mock up of ring assembly
Welding rings together into subassembly
Welding ring assembly
Grinding ring assembly
Spraying spray tack on inner tube
Spraying textured art paper to coat tube
Applying paper to tube and trimming
Painting interior of chandelier ‘shade’
The big reveal




Finished stained glass panels for floor lamp
Initial back of the napkin concept drawing
Making pillars for uprights to support stained glass panels
Cut upright pillars
Trial fit of pillars to stretchers
Cutting list
Glued together top section for glass panels
Cutting mesquite inlay for shelf
Gluing shelf together
Making our own baseboard molding from pecan lumber (started as tree cut from our yard)
Cutting moulding on baseboard
Cutting mirror for light reflection
Retainer for mirror on top stretchers
Trial fit of glass panels with light and mirror
Cutting birch bottom section pieces
Cutting veneer
Bits and pieces of bottom section, cut and veneered
Hinge recessed for door
Lower section glued and clamped together
Gluing baseboard moulding
Staining lower cabinet section
Spray lacquering cabinet top, bottom, and pieces
Finished lamp with shelf pulled out
Finished lamp in place
We decided to use a combination of oak and cedar for an ‘architectural’ highlight. The wood was super dry, almost kiln dried. Using the jointer we cut a flat through the 6″ – 8″ logs to clear the bark and provide a flat datum. The jointer allowed us to make parellel sides.
































